The History
Although there were no Māori living in Le Bons Bay when the first Europeans arrived in 1857, archaeological evidence indicates many centuries of occupation. In the 1950’s archaeologists from Canterbury Museum found artifacts similar to those found at the Wairua Bar site, dating back to the 13 th Century. These first settlers would have been the Waitaha people, who were followed in the 16 th by the southward migration of the Ngāti Māmoe, and in the late 16 th Century by Ngāi Tahu. Māori occupation in Le Bons was probably never in large numbers, and there has been no evidence that a fortified pā existed. The evidence points to occupation being near the beach and river, with the small creek that flows through the beach settlement providing fresh water.
Although kūmara were grown on a number of sites on the Peninsula, there is no evidence of it being grown in Le Bons. The Old Wharf Road property that the Le Bons Bay Conservation Trust is hoping to purchase is north facing, a necessity for kūmara growing this far south, but too steep and rocky for cultivation. It may have provided, in its more fertile areas, reasonable sized totara for waka construction.
The river that provides the northern boundary for the Old Wharf Road property would have provided a variety of food sources for Māori. Fish species such as īnanga (whitebait), pātiki (flounder), aua (mullet) and of course tuna (eel) would have been plentiful. So would large beds of tungangi (cockle) and pipi (pipi). There would have been numerous edible native plants growing along the river side. The hills above the river would have hosted all manner of edible native plants and native birds.
Māori occupation in Le Bons may have ended with Te Rauparaha bloody deeds. After the slaughter of hundreds of local inhabitants at Takapūneke (1830) and Õnawe (1832). Te Rauparaha stopped at various bays on his way back north to make sure he had completed his mission. The nearest Pa to Le Bons, at Pa Bay, was one of these places.
The Port Levy purchase in 1849 witnessed the Crown take ownership of a large section of Banks Peninsula, from Port Levy all the way round to Pohatu/Flea Bay, including Le Bons Bay. Despite promises from Walter Mantell, the Crown Agent, that reserves would be “large and many”, only one at Koukourarata was forthcoming. The Waitangi Tribunal upheld the Ngāi Tahu claim that the Port Levy purchase represented a forced sale.
Koukourarata Runanga have the mana whenua for Le Bons Bay, and therefore, the Old Wharf Road property. They are very supportive of the conservation aims of the Le Bons Bay Conservation Trust and we look forward to working in partnership with Koukourarata.
Māori History
Wharf History
The exporting of milled timber provided the impetus to build a wharf, and a road to it, in the 1870’s. Prior to this the timber was punted down the river and through the waves to awaiting ships. In 1871 the Canterbury Provincial Council awarded mill owner John Smith one thousand pounds to build a wharf, with a tramway all the way back up to the mill, situated at the east end of the big straight on the flat, next to the river.
While the wharf was a great success for local farmers, Smiths tramway never delivered the goods. The track to the wharf was under constant stress from rough seas and slips and fell into disuse. By 1876 the Akaroa Mail reported only James Dalglish was using the wharf, and other residents had reverted back to punting goods over the bar. The development of cocks footing in the 1880’s, as well as cheese soon after, saw a greater need for access to the wharf. The Bailey brothers were awarded the tender to widen and lengthen the wharf, and develop the road so it was wide enough to accommodate horse drawn wagons. The extensive stone wall work, much of which survives to this day, was done at this time.
Despite initial optimism, the residents were continually battling against the forces of nature, with rough seas repeatedly causing damage at the wharf end. Nevertheless, repairs were made and the wharf could be driven to by car as late as the late 1940’s. The development of trucks and better roading, as well as the closing of the cheese factory in 1937 resulted in the wharf, and the road leading to it, gradually falling into disrepair. However, from the 1880’s through to the 1940’s the wharf was the main highway in Le Bons, with the Elliott family having a store on their property in the 1930’s.
These days the old wharf road provides a difficult walking track from the beach up to the main road. Slips from above, and encroaching vines have made the road virtually impassable. The Le Bons Bay Conservation Trust see the reinstatement of the road back into a safe walking track as one of our initial tasks. The Christchurch City Council have indicated that they will help with this endeavour.
Houses
Over the past 150 years there have been three houses built along the road. As you walk in the gate from Dalglish Road, in the swampy area on the left, there was a small colonial house, that according to ‘Le Bons Bay, the story of a settlement’, by Garry Brittenden, was lived in by a Neilsen, one of the Danish settlers in the bay. A look under the tree’s may reveal some remains for the sharp eyed.
Further along the road is the house built by John Reece in the 1870’s, that still stands today. The history of the houses and the families that lived there, are included below.
The final house along the Old Wharf Road was situated across the river from the Transfer and Recycling Station. The name of Elstob or Elstop is connected to the property, but little else is known.
Elliott Family History
My great great grandparents Henry and Fanny Kate Elliott settled in Le Bons Bay about 1875. Their son Frank married Dorothea Rasmussen, they purchased the house and property in Wharf Road in 1903. As their family grew more rooms were added to the house to accommodate their family 10 children. In 1915 Frank's mother moved in to live with them. In the late 1920's early 30's their son Cyril opened a Store there. The family made a living from raising stock, selling cream and wool. Also harvesting cooks-foot seed and producing Honey. Many beehives can be seen around the house in family photographs. Frank worked for the Le Bons Bay and Okains Bay Road board and was involved in the building of and repairing the Wharf. Frank and Dorothea Elliott's sons Harry, Bill, Jack and Cyril also owned property in Le Bons Bay. My Grandfather Peter was one of their 10 children. Frank Elliott passed away in 1939, ownership of the property transferred to his son Harry, then to his son Mel. The last members of the family to live in the house were Edith Elliott, her son Reuben and Edith's sister Kate Elliott, this would have been in the late 1930's. Edith and Kate were also children of Frank and Dorothea Elliott.
Reece Family History
John Rees was born 10/07/1828 at Llangoedmor, Cardiganshire, Wales. He married MaryAnn Coldwell at Claines, Worcestershire on 23/12/1855. Mary was born around 1835. By 1871 John and MaryAnn were living at Black House, Worcester with their two children, Mary b1862 and John Frederick b1864.
In 1874 the family emigrated to NZ on the Pleaides, arriving in Lyttelton March 1875 with the surname Reece, the ships passenger list shows John as a farm labourer. By early 1876 John Reece was living at Le Bons Bay with his family. He was giving addresses at the Church. He purchased the Crown Grant of Rural section 26285 on 10/02/1882. An advertisement shows him acting as an agent for the Akaroa County Council and residing at his “own” residence in Le Bons Bay. It is likely John built, or had built for him, the two storey house currently occupying the site in the late 1870s. John passed away in 1897 leaving the house and land to his wife MaryAnn. In 1898 MaryAnn passed away and the right to harvest the plot was offered at auction along with the furniture, crockery, utensils and bedding that belonged to the house.
Gordon Family History
Our family connection with Le Bons Bay dates back to 1975 when two Christchurch couples with young children, Derry & Elizabeth Gordon and close friends Kath Bennett and Graham Hollobon began to lease the Old Wharf Road property from Le Bons Bay resident Mel Eliot. Back in 1975 the house hadn't been lived in for decades and was in a dire condition with holes in the roof and every window broken. It was jokingly known as the haunted house by local youngsters would spook themselves by taking walks through the tumble down house. Luckily for us, in our many years at the house, we can safely say that no ghoulish visitors have been spotted...just a few noisy possums rolling walnuts down the roof!
The Gordons and Hollobons made an arrangement with Mel Eliot to restore the old house but pay a peppercorn rent, hence the name ‘Peppercorn Cottage’. Over the years, holidays and weekends were spent doing the repair work. Eventually the old house was brought up to a liveable standard and it could sleep14 people.
When Mel died the two families bought the 20 acres with the house from Mel’s estate, later adding another 80 acres. Eventually Derry and Elizabeth bought out Kath and Graham. The children of the families - Rebecca, Jeremy and Tim Hollobon and John, Susannah, Margaret and Charlotte Gordon spent many holidays there. They swam at the beach, made huts and collected walnuts and quinces. They took the rowboat out onto the river and loved the domain for a game of cricket and NZ's best flying fox. There was no phone, TV, wifi or cellphone reception so we just had eachother for company! But best of all was the sun soaked front deck. We loved its sheltered aspect, protected from the easterly wind in the valley. How better to enjoy an outdoor lunch, a cup of tea or a glass of wine in the early evening. At night the deck was the place to gaze at the expansive sky clustered with stars.
The house had so many beds, making it ideal for big groups. Over the years, hundreds of friends and family members have stayed on the property: community groups, families needing a break, youth camps, couples or singeltons needing some space from the world. Some returned year after year. Some came especially for solitude. So many people have said that this property had a special effect on them. They would arrive tired and frazzled but leave rejuvenated with their spirits lifted.
The land around the house changed too over the years. In the early days, possums reigned supreme. Their hacking laughs throughout the night terrified us as children. From the 1990's all grazing cattle and sheep were removed from the land, leading to regeneration and return of more native birds. By the 2010s we often heard the noisy beating of the kereru's wings in the trees around the house. Cats also were a blight on the valley. One year a trapper caught 27 wild cats on the property in one session. The birdcall were noticeably louder that summer,
Sadly, the story of the house ended in December 2021. A devastating storm swept through the valley, creating a landslide in the hills behind the house. Rubble and silt flooded the lower rooms of Peppercorn Cottage, rendering it unliveable and eventually 'red stickered.' But while the house is now effectively gone, the Gordon family hope that the Le Bons Bay Conservation Trust can add a few more chapters to the history of the land and the house, one where nature is able to take the lead and locals and visitors are all free to enjoy this precious spot. Perhaps the Le Bons Bay Conservation Trust will finally allow the phoenix -or kereru- to rise from the ashes of Peppercorn Cottage.
The Gordon Family
-Gary Elliott
-Gail Williams, Great-Granddaughter of John Reece
The Elliott family on the wharf road in the early 1900's with their home in the background.
-Charlotte Gordon
Peppercorn Cottage after the 2022 flood that made the house uninhabitable